Timmelsjoch -Austria
Long on my bucket list, the Timmelsjoch (Passo Rombo from the Italian side) starts from the busy Ötztal, rides through a lost and mysterious valley once dominated by smugglers before tackling an incredible road on the Italian side which is hugging the mountain side with endless switch backs.
Wonderfully varied ride with stunning views.
Timmelsjoch - 2507m
This high-alpine pass forms the border between Austria and Italy and is very much a ride of two halves. The northern Austrian side is just over 22 km long, includes a couple of short descents, and features gradients that range from moderate to very demanding. It finishes by passing through a remote valley that was once best known for smuggling.
In contrast, the Italian side is considerably tougher—longer, steeper, and far more dramatic. It is one of the most demanding climbs in the region, but also one of the most rewarding roads you can ride.
Historic crossing
This is an historic pass. It was used in prehistoric times for trade and migration and was part of early routes connecting northern and southern Europe. During the Middle Ages, the pass was used by traders and shepherds moving between Austria and South Tyrol. However, it was not a major trade route compared to Brenner Pass due to its harsh conditions hence was encouraging smuggling.
Sölden to Hochgurgl
Leaving Sölden is an uneven climb to Hochgurgl. Some very steep sections, a little downhill, glorious switch backs, all against the backdrop of the Ötztaler alps, which are some of the highest in Austria.
You reach the toll station in Hochgurgl which is not only a cable car station in winter and a fabulous restaurant but also a very comprehensive motorbike museum. Surprising.
Smugglers' Valley
Past the toll station, the road turns into quite a fierce downhill (beware of the cattle grids) before turning into a lost valley best known in the past for smuggling. This is a really wonderful part of the climb.
So remote, nothing but mountains and road. In the early morning, there are no sound but the whistling of the wind. Onwards to the pass through a set of quite demanding switch backs.
Passo Rombo - 2474 m
Curiously, the Italian Passo del Rombo is listed as being just under 30 m lower than the Austrian Timmelsjoch. I suppose one will never truly know the exact height of the pass—I choose to go with the higher figure. In any case, the Italian side is very different from the Austrian one.
The character of the mountains changes, and after a short tunnel the mountainside suddenly falls away, opening onto a steep valley below. Riding down the switchbacks into the valley is as awe-inspiring as the climb back up to the pass is arduous.
The ascent on this side is nearly 30 km long and gains 1,794 m of elevation, depending on which height you assume for the pass. This puts the Passo del Rombo in a similar league to the Stelvio in terms of scale and challenge.
Cycle Marathon
Every year the Ötztaler cycle marathon passes over this road as the last in four climbs.
I did this climb after coming up the other side which was tough enough but having to ride up Passo Rombo after 200km in the saddle is a stunning achievement
Edge of the mountain
The first two thirds of this ride are demanding but it is at the end where the climbs comes into its own. The valley seems to have come to an end and the road is chiseled into the mountain side winding its way up and up, switchback after switchback.
I was never so glad to reach a tunnel near the top as it is cool and as the road after the tunnel levels out to the pass.
The valley is far below you and feels lost in time. The Italian side is much less developed than the Austrian side and exudes a aura of peace and calm. Meadows, mountain huts, cows.
This gives the Italian side of the pass an almost charming feel if it would not be for the incessant gradient, especially in the last third.
Lost Valleys
A pass of two very different halves
A busy Austrian and laid back but tough Italian side
Timmelsjoch from Sölden
Length: 22.1km
Altitude gain: 1259m
Max altitude: 2507 m
Average gradient: 5.7%
Max gradient: 10.3%
Passo Rombo from St Leonhard
Length: 29km
Altitude gain: 1794m
Max altitude: 2474 m
Average gradient: 6.2%
Max gradient: 12.8%
Route Tip: Climbing both sides of the Timmelsjoch / Passo Rombo in one go is a serious undertaking with about 102 km in length and 3015m climbing. To shorten the ride, you can partly drop down the other side. Coming from St Leonard in Italy, you can descend to the toll station in Hochgurgl as there is a great restaurant with excellent views. Coming from Sölden in Austria, dropping down to Albergo Hochfirst covers the last third of the climb and the most interesting part.
