Timmelsjoch -Austria
Long on my bucket list, the Timmelsjoch (Passo Rombo from the Italian side) starts from the busy Ötztal, rides through a lost and mysterious valley once dominated by smugglers before tackling an incredible road on the Italian side which is hugging the mountain side with endless switch backs.
Wonderfully varied ride with stunning views.
This high-alpine pass forms the border between Austria and Italy and is very much a ride of two halves. The northern Austrian side is just over 22 km long, includes a couple of short descents, and features gradients that range from moderate to very demanding. It finishes by passing through a remote valley that was once best known for smuggling.
In contrast, the Italian side is considerably tougher—with a length of 29km it is 7 km longer, steeper, and far more dramatic - climbing 1,806m. It is one of the most demanding climbs in the region, but also one of the most rewarding roads you can ride.
Historic crossing
This is a historic pass. It was used in prehistoric times for trade and migration and formed part of early routes connecting northern and southern Europe. During the Middle Ages, it was used by traders and shepherds moving between Austria and South Tyrol. However, due to its harsh conditions, it never became a major trade route like the Brenner Pass, which in turn encouraged the pass to become a smuggling route.
There are two distinct sections to this ride:
Sölden to Hochgurgl
The first part of the climb from Sölden to Hochgurgl is 16.5km long, climbing 850m. Leaving Sölden, the climb to Hochgurgl is varied and uneven, featuring some very steep sections, brief downhill stretches, and glorious switchbacks—all set against the backdrop of the Ötztal Alps, among the highest in Austria. Once in Gurgl, a set of 5 switchbacks brings you above the tree line where you leave the forest and expansive views over the Ötztal valley open up. At Hochgurgl, you reach the toll station at 2,175m altitude, which in winter serves as a cable car station. It is also home to an excellent restaurant and, somewhat unexpectedly, a comprehensive motorbike museum.
Smugglers' Valley
The second part to the top of the climb is 7.6 km long, climbing 420 m. The scenery is very different as the road is totally exposed and it is becoming increasingly isolated as it turns away from the ski stations into a long valley driving deep into the mountains towards Italy.
Beyond the toll station, the road drops into a steep descent losing about 100m in elevation—watch out for the cattle grids—before entering a remote valley once known for smuggling. This is a truly wonderful part of the climb. It feels completely isolated, with nothing but mountains and road. In the early morning, the only sound is the whistling of the wind and the marmots. The last 3 km to the pass is where the road really tightens the screw with average gradients rising to 10%. After passing through a series of demanding switchbacks, the pass comes into sight and with it the futuristic architecture placed along the pass road on both sides.
Curiously, the Italian Passo del Rombo is listed as being just under 30 m lower than the Austrian Timmelsjoch. I suppose the exact height of the pass will never be known with certainty—I tend to go with the higher figure. In any case, the Italian side is very different from the Austrian one.
The character of the mountains changes, and after a short tunnel the mountainside suddenly falls away, opening onto a steep valley below. Riding down the switchbacks into the valley is as awe-inspiring as the climb back up to the pass is demanding.
The ascent on this side is just over 29 km long and gains around 1,806 m of elevation, depending on which height you accept for the pass. This places the Passo del Rombo in a similar league to the Stelvio in terms of scale and challenge.
Cycle Marathon
Every year the Ötztaler cycle marathon passes over this road as the last in four climbs.
I did this climb after coming up the other side which was tough enough but having to ride up Passo Rombo after 200km in the saddle is a stunning achievement
Edge of the mountain
The first two-thirds of this ride are demanding, but it is towards the end that the climb truly comes into its own. The valley seems to come to an end, and the road is chiselled into the mountainside, winding its way ever upwards, switchback after switchback.
I have rarely been so glad to reach a tunnel near the top, where the air is cool and the road beyond begins to level out towards the pass.
Lost Valleys
The valley lies far below, seeming almost lost in time. The Italian side is far less developed than the Austrian side and exudes an aura of peace and calm—meadows, mountain huts, and grazing cows.
This gives the Italian side of the pass an almost charming quality, were it not for the relentless gradients, especially in the final third of the climb.
A pass of two very different halves
A busy Austrian and laid back but tough Italian side
Timmelsjoch from Sölden
Length: 22.1km
Altitude gain: 1259m
Max altitude: 2507 m
Average gradient: 5.7%
Max gradient: 10.3%
Passo Rombo from St Leonhard
Length: 29km
Altitude gain: 1794m
Max altitude: 2474 m
Average gradient: 6.2%
Max gradient: 12.8%
Route Tip: Climbing both sides of the Timmelsjoch / Passo Rombo in one go is a serious undertaking with about 102 km in length and 3015m climbing. To shorten the ride, you can partly drop down the other side. Coming from St Leonard in Italy, you can descend to the toll station in Hochgurgl as there is a great restaurant with excellent views. Coming from Sölden in Austria, dropping down to Albergo Hochfirst covers the last third of the climb and the most interesting part.
